Hog Jowls » burger

Red van, red tape

Skyring — Sat, 19 Jun 2010 17:15:30 +0000

The place

It’s hard to imagine Canberra without Lake Burley Griffin. It was the main feature of the winning entry in the competition for the design of the new capital city, but it took fifty years for it to become reality. For most of its existence, Canberra was a sleepy little country town with a provisional Parliament House in a sheep paddock, and roads leading down to wooden bridges spanning the slow-moving Molonglo River.

Depression, World War Two and the fact that most of the public service remained in Melbourne and Sydney kept Canberra small, until the Sixties when rapid growth really began. New suburbs were laid out, the National Library and the Royal Australian Mint were built and the place just mushroomed.

In keeping with the modern buildings and their fresh architecture, money was poured into landscaping and parkland. The shores of the future lake were defined and built up, high level bridges over the Molonglo erected to complete the geometry of the Parliamentary Triangle, and Scrivener Dam raised in a narrow part of the river valley down past Government House.

Came the big day when the dam was complete, the band played, the Minister for Territories pressed the button, the floodgates were lowered and the crowd rushed to the side to peer over.

Trouble was that it had been a severe drought for months, the Molonglo was just a trickle and absolutely nothing happened. Not that day, not the next, nor the week after. In fact, for months on, there was no lake. Just a dusty expanse.

Then there came a flood, just as the organisers of the long-scheduled inaugural Canberra Regatta were wringing their hands and tearing their hair out. Overnight the lake filled and has been that way ever since.

It completed Canberra. Made it into a showcase of parks and great buildings reflected in the water. An almost symmetrical body of water in an almost symmetrical city. The even-sided cone of Mount Ainslie rising over the long land axis stretching down from Parliament House.

On and exit ramps came looping off the two big bridges. Bowen Drive curls around under the Kings Avenue Bridge, following the shoreline east, gracefully curving off towards Kingston. Here is a little area of grassland, a toilet block, a carpark and a few barbecues. A place for weekend picnics and fishing. Swans gather to be fed, Cyclists whiz past on their exercise runs and lovers stroll hand in hand.

View Larger Map

The encounter

As a Canberra night cabbie, the locations of all the late night food vans are well known to me. Two in Philip, one each in Tuggeranong, Woden and Belconnen, and Civic has one that only ever operates during Summernats when the big yellow double decker bus permanently parked on Girrawheen Street comes to life.

I’ll sometimes pull in at the end of a shift feeling peckish for a half bag of chips and gravy. A sinful treat of fat and salt. Passengers coming back from a night out direct me in, ordering burgers or chiko rolls. Junk food and coke.

So when I saw the red van in Bowen Park, lit up late one Friday night, I pulled in. There were a crowd of people lined up, and I studied the menu as I waited. Seemed a little sparse, and when I got to the front, I ordered “Just chips and gravy, please!”

Brodburger red van in Bowen park

“We don’t do gravy.”

“Oh. Um.”

“We do aioli. Homemade.”

“Aioli?”

“It’s a sauce, made of garlic and egg and olive oil.”

The aioli and chips was okay, I guess, but it wasn’t that salty, greasy gravy that instantly ruins a white shirt if you drip it.

Over the months, the little red burger van gained a devoted following. There would always be a long queue and a crowd. Not what a cabbie in a hurry needs for fast food.

The burger

My second meal at Brodburger came recently. That stage of the evening when the afternoon rush has died down and I’m thinking of dinner. Usually something quick and healthy. Subway, a burrito, a kebab. Maybe a curry on Friday, when it’s late night shopping in Civic.

But I was on the way to Kingston, I glanced across, and when I saw only a couple of diners lined up for their food, I hung a U-turn and drew into the car park.

As it happened, about a month previously I’d driven Joelle Bou-jaoude to the van after she’d made an emergency dash home for more change. My cabbie heart went out to her – so many times I was down to just a few big notes and small coins, and one more fifty-dollar note would wipe me out!

She looks every bit as good in the flesh as she does in the logo, I’m here to say! She smiled as she told me they’d just introduced a new product: a Brod steakburger. “Best steak. Really popular!”

So, as I lined up at the window, I knew exactly what I wanted.

“Steakburger, please!”

“How do you want it?” The chap serving was Sascha Brodbeck himself. Gourmet chef running a little red food van.

Joelle Bou-Jaoude

“Ummm, medium, I guess.”

There was a snort of derision from inside the van. Well, I like my meat a bit brown on the outside, okay?

“What cheese would you like on it?”

“What are the choices?”

“Swiss,” Sascha began. “Brie…”

Brie! On a burger! Oh wow!

“…or blue vein.”

By now I was swooning. “Blue, please!” I stammered.

Sascha warned it would take a while, so I wandered off for a look around. The van was connected to the electricity and water via a temporary arrangement at the rear. Beside it was the concrete toilet block. A few metres away a flock of swans gathered on the water, grey cygnets floating warily between hungry parents. I resolved not to eat at the water’s edge, lest a long swan neck reach up and grab my meal!

A pricey snack at $12.50, or $9.00 for a normal beef patty burger. But when I got mine, it was well worth it. Easily worth a couple of Whoppers.

Several slabs of steak, beautifully cooked tender and tasty, dripping with melted blue cheese and aioli. A generous allowance of rocket, tomato slice, red Spanish onions, chunky tomato relish. All on a soft golden bread roll.

No plate, no tables. Just a paper bag and a liner. I photographed the burger on the cab bonnet, and settled down in the front seat to consume my handy feast.

Some burgers rely on quantity for their value. Or the variety of ingredients. Much as I like pineapple, bacon, cheese, pickles, tomato and egg piled high for a huge calorie fix, my Brodburger was exactly right on the quantity and variety. Not too heavy, not too unwieldy.

Just right. The perfect mix of homemade ingredients, freshly prepared and simply presented. I was licking the last juices from my happy fingers when my next radio job came in, and I was on the road again.

I’ll be back.

The rage

Canberra is a city of public servants. All the government departments moved their central offices into purpose-built headquarter buildings during the Sixties and Seventies. In the decades since, the increasing power and centralisation of the federal government has seen a massive increase in population and government jobs.

Canberra is also a city of politicians. Initially administered by public servants, the place prospered. It was intended as a planned, garden city showcase, and when I arrived in the mid-Eighties, it was a true wonder. The world’s ultimate suburbia, the houses were all on big blocks, freeways connected the satellite towns, there were generous stretches of parkland and nature reserve, each suburb had schools, shops, churches and apartment blocks in the centre.

People complained it was all very sterile, but I was enchanted. I had found a beautiful city full of educated, cultured people that wasn’t crowded and busy. Peak hour, people said, lasted a minute. The government built the infrastructure first, before the residents of a new suburb moved in. My father-in-law, a civic engineer, was amazed at the high standards. “The cycle paths,” he exclaimed, “are built to the same specifications as one of our highways. They will never wear out!”

It was a grand place to live. Then the politicians decided that the city would be best served by self-government. Instead of various federal departments running the territory, the residents would elect politicians to a Legislative Assembly, raise taxes and pay for all the services.

Twice the residents rejected a referendum on self-government. The place worked fine just as it was. Why should we pay for a bunch of politicians, their staffs and a whole new layer of government?

But the feds forced it on us. The first few elections were shambles, with the No Self-Government Party attracting a lot of support. Sadly, not enough support to form a government. The Sun-Ripened Warm Tomato Party was also popular.

The predictable result has been a top-heavy administration. A State government to run a city. A smallish city of 350 000 inhabitants today after two decades of growth since self-government. Standards have fallen, money is wasted, taxes have risen.

The all powerful National Capital Development Commission has vanished, replaced by the local government planners. The essential federal lands of the Parliamentary Triangle are run by a rump: the National Capital Authority, which is more like three men and a dog seeking relevance.

Right. So when Sasha Brodberg wanted to set up a gourmet restaurant on wheels, he applied to the local government and was granted a hawker’s licence, like those given to the other semi-permanent food vans. These vans might shift their location once a decade.

He settled on the otherwise empty Bowen Drive. A heavy flow of passing traffic, a pleasant park by the lake, access to amenities. A good site, and the steady increase in customers was testament to his wisdom.

One day the National Capital Authority woke up to the fact that he was effectively permanently camped on land they controlled, and his little red food van wasn’t quite the structure they wanted to see there. They served him notice to decamp.

Technically speaking, they were in the right. The cinder-block public convenience beside the van was fine. It had been planned and built to a solid, if unimaginative, standard. The van itself, if it was to be a permanent fixture, wasn’t suitable for the national capital infrastructure.

But the Brodburger van is a finer fixture than any of the other six late-night food vans. It’s neater and cleaner, a gourmet food outlet serving the nearby yuppies.

It’s far more useful and sightly than the so-called Aboriginal Tent Embassy, a nearby eyesore in the heart of the Parliamentary Triangle denying a solid slab of prime parkland to the general community for the past twenty years. But that’s political, and no government body wants to evict a bunch of squatters.

Far easier to attack the popular and useful little red food van. Notice was served, and the final eviction will be mid 2010.

Community outrage against the bureaucrats has been strong and heartwarming. Everybody loves the Brodburger van and wants it to remain precisely where it is. A petition with about a bazillion signatures is available for signing, there have been letters to the editor, debates on community forums. Even the Chief Minister, scenting the public mood for an upcoming election, has lent his support.

I’ll update this post in due course. Will the bureaucrats triumph? Or will common sense prevail to keep the best burgers in the Australian Capital Territory available to an adoring public?

–PeterMac

Resources

Song of America

Song of America

Skyring — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 02:31:38 +0000

The hook

January. Midsummer in Canberra. Hot, dry. T-shirt, short pants and sandals. Relief comes in the long daylight saving evenings when the sun slides down behind the Brindabellas and the shadows of the gum trees lengthen out across the valley.

My wife’s sister arrived at the door with a bottle of champagne. I looked at it and at her. Blank.

“Ah, happy birthday?”

“Don’t be silly. It’s for Kerri.”

Oh yes. My wife. She was off to America in a couple of days. Some government conference. Every three months she was abroad. Stockholm, Berlin, Paris…

I fetched flutes, poured the chilled wine, and we sat outside on the deck, talking in the warm mellowing evening.

“I’d love to be going with her,” I said. Washington DC. Kerri had two conferences to attend, and would be spending a week there, all expenses paid, courtesy of the Australian taxpayer and the UN. I thought about Washington – the Smithsonians, the galleries, the grand buildings, the White House. Arlington and JFK. The heart of America.

But I’d never travelled far. We’d gone to New Zealand on our honeymoon twenty years earlier, and then again for a second holiday, two teenagers in the back seat. That was it. I’d travel further one day. One day…

“Well, why don’t you?”

I thought about this. We were doing okay financially, I’d be able to share the hotel room, the internet bookselling business could go hang for a week, the kids were old enough to look after themselves. But international travel! That was a big step.

I excused myself, went inside, a little bubbly as I checked the computer. Canberra to Washington and back was expensive, but not out of the question. Only trouble was that it was too late to book online.

So next morning I was there at Flight Centre, telling a travel agent, “I’d like to fly to Washington. Tomorrow.”

And it was so. That “one day” was on me.

The song

America! The nation dominated the news and the world of my childhood. Still does. The British Empire had crumbled, the Communists didn’t have the media coverage, the Europeans spoke a bunch of incomprehensible, but the Americans were pumping out cool stuff faster and cooler as they launched satellites and boosted communications and finally invented the internet and my life will never be the same.

Americans had the best music, the brightest films, the fastest cars, the sharpest planes…

And the space program. During the Sixties the Soviets lost their early lead as America pushed up rocket after rocket until that memorable black and white day they landed on the moon. The Russians couldn’t compete after that.

As it turned out, neither could the Americans, and space exploration fizzled off into seeing how bored astronauts could get as they went umpty-zillion times around the world in cobbled-together space stations.

Still, it was America that seized my growing imagination, and when in Sunnybank State High School we studied Simon and Garfunkel, I was struck by the poignancy and accuracy of this song.

…I don’t know a soul who’s not been battered
I don’t have a friend who feels at ease
I don’t know a dream that’s not been shattered
or driven to its knees
But it’s all right, it’s all right
For we’ve lived so well so long
Still, when I think of the road
we’re traveling on
I wonder what went wrong
I can’t help it, I wonder what went wrong

And I dreamed I was dying
And I dreamed that my soul rose unexpectedly
And looking back down at me
Smiled reassuringly
And I dreamed I was flying
And high up above my eyes could clearly see
The Statue of Liberty
Sailing away to sea

For we come on the ship they call the Mayflower
We come on the ship that sailed the moon
We come in the age’s most uncertain hours
and sing an American tune…

Isn’t that America all over? Written just shy of the bicentennial of the Declaration of Independence, post Vietnam, Paul Simon – Rhymin’ Simon – had summed up his nation in a few lines. Two hundred years old, creaky at the joints, forgetting stuff, making odd decisions, but still pumping out the hits. A nation founded on some solid notions. Liberty, the pursuit of happiness, equality. It might not always have turned out as it should, but America had a heart of gold, and you could be sure that Uncle Sam would get there in the end.

The place

I’ve been in some magical places in my time. A New Zealand cave with a galaxy of glow-worms lighting our upturned faces drifting in a boat down an underground river. Kissing my wife on top of the Eiffel Tower. Seeing sperm whales off Kaikoura. Standing before Sagrada Familia in awe. The laser light show over Hong Kong Harbour.

Cold in the capital

But there I was, one wondrous week in Washington DC, the fresh snow deep and white down the Mall. I all but had the city to myself, just a few hardy tourists and the odd yellow schoolbus full of interstate kids braving the snow.

Quite frankly, I’d never been so cold in my life. I walked across from Arlington, and the Potomac was frozen over. I’d never seen a frozen river. I’d never seen much in the way of snow, neither. But here were great drifts of it, with homeless people shivering in corners.

Coming from midsummer Australia to frozen America in January, it was a shock in so many ways. But I pulled on my gloves, bought a beanie from a souvenir stand selling off leftovers from the second Bush inauguration, and high-stepped through the snow, enjoying the atmosphere, enjoying the grand buildings, enjoying the emptiness.

I could see that the National Archives were set up for thousands of visitors. But there was just me and a dozen others in the Rotunda for the Charters of Freedom. I could gaze on the Declaration of Liberty and the US Constitution for as long as I wished.

And I did. In many ways, the United States of America is Australia’s big brother. Americans fought the battles of a firstborn, hardwon freedoms that younger siblings gained with ease. Australia’s independence came with ink, not blood. It is only proper to pay some measure of homage to those who went first.

And what a prize they won! The world’s first great modern democracy. The model for the modern age. The shining example, exemplified by the Statue of Liberty holding the torch of freedom high.

Inspiring stuff, and I glowed as I walked out into the snow again. Lofty thoughts were in my head, and it seemed only right that I turn towards the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, where dreams were high as the sky itself.

Another place where the lines stretched around the block in summer. Another place that was just me and a few tourists. I touched a piece of the sky on the way in. A slice of moon rock. For a moment I was magic.

Such amazing aircraft. Here were the highlights of a century of flight, hanging from the ceiling, resting on simulated runways, just a thin wire separating me from the Wright Brothers canvas and string Flyer of 1903.

The Spirit of Saint Louis is there, one of the first planes to fly the Atlantic. One man, one engine, New York to Paris non-stop. The feat fired imaginations around the world.

Its streamlined shape is echoed and refined by that of the Bell X-1 Glamorous Glennis, which the legendary Chuck Yeager piloted to become the first human to exceed the speed of sound. Built like a bullet, this rocket powered craft broke the sound barrier in 1947 and hangs in a corner of the main hall, its needle nose spearing the air.

There are planes and rockets and spacecraft galore. A Boeing 747. John Glenn’s Mercury capsule. A simulated USN aircraft carrier holding naval aircraft on a portion of flight deck. Craft from all eras, from the biplanes of WW1 to the world’s first private spaceship.

A place for kids of all ages. The awe on the face of a five-year old is matched by the sparkle in his grandfather’s eye.

For me, the most magical place of all was there in a corner of the great hall, standing before the very ship that sailed the moon. This was science fiction made true in metal and perspex. This was mankind’s greatest feat. This was a marvel of technology. This wasn’t two guys in a garage, this was a mighty national effort – a triumph of organisation, teamwork, science and sweat.

I never tire of the story of Apollo. It might have seemed routine in the terse phrases of the mission controllers, the endless acronyms of LEM and CSM and MOCR, the flag-waving and the speeches. But it was new and dangerous in the Sixties. The three men who had lived in this tiny gumdrop of a craft for ten days had truly gone where no man had gone before. In space, in time, in history.

They and their comrades were the heroes of my youth. And they still are.

The meal

I ate lunch in the Smithsonian Air and Space. In many ways, it was as quintessentially American as a plate of ribs. Or hog jowls and cornpone. It was fitting.

America on a plate - without the plate

It was a Big Mac and fries and a medium Coke.

It wasn’t a meal to write home about, unless it was to say in wonder, “Hey, they have McDonalds here in America too!”

It wasn’t a unique experience. Small details of packaging aside, it was exactly the same meal I could have had in the Canberra Centre. Or Kowloon. Or on the Boulevard St Michel. Or off Trafalgar Square.

But it was perfect for the setting. Remember how I mentioned that the grand museums were set up for thousands of visitors? They were, with chains and poles set up to guide lines of tourists zig zag from the street to the entrance, from the door to the counter, past the notable exhibits in an orderly fashion. In the land of the free, this was the home of the queue.

In the basements, in the cafeterias, fast food chains took care of the crowds. Subway, Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fried and McDonalds. Thousands could be fed fast, rather than fed up slowly.

I felt odd indeed, walking straight up to the counter, getting my Big Mac meal in a matter of seconds, and then taking my pick from the hundreds of tables in the vast refectory area. I chose one by the window, where the new Museum of the American Indian challenged the classic columns and porticos lining the Mall.

Perhaps it is fitting that I cannot remember any details of the food. Just the setting. But my readers have had the same meal. The same exact taste and texture. I don’t need to describe the crisp salt taste of the chips, the thrill of the cola going down as the ice cubes clinkle, the tart pickle and sauce on the grilled patties, and the sesame seeds of the buns finding the crevices in our teeth. We know it all too well.

It is not good food. It is fat and carbohydrates, sugar and salt. But it is precisely what I needed on this freezing day before I ventured back outside. A calorie hit of junk food.

And, for the millions of visitors to the various Smithsonians, it is homely food. Familiar in price and taste. There’s no flight into the unknown, no agonising over a decision between (say) the Apollo Sandwich and the Lindbergh Lunch. Instant decision, instant service, instant satisfaction, next please!

The key

Champagne and a Big Mac. I’ve kept the label from the bottle, page one of the scrapbook I made for the trip. It was a HUGE step for me to go to Washington, but once I’d made it, I never stopped. Every year since then I’ve been around the world once or twice.

Sometimes I smile at the young man in his late forties who looked with awe down at the frozen river, the crisp snow, the flame burning over a fallen president. So many stars in his eyes! Every airport was new and exciting. LAX was an adventure where people walked on the wrong side and black men in uniform called you “Sir” as they patted you down for a random security check.

My life has changed beyond imagining. That trip with my wife to Washington DC set me travelling. Usually alone, sometimes with a merry companion or two. On average, I take a flight every ten days, often long-haul. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve flown in and out of Kingsford-Smith. Or Heathrow. Or DFW.

But I can’t lose the excitement of a new city, a new place, a new set of memories. A new meal. I’ve barely tasted America in my five years of travel. I shall return.

Resources

View Larger Map

Things To Do
Washington DC

Looking for America